Kevin Slovinski
Newbie

Posts: 21
|
 |
« on: December 14, 2009, 08:43:00 AM » |
|
anyone interested in selling an astro pitch? thanks slo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Patrick Sheridan
Maryland Subbuteo Club
Sr. Member

Posts: 367
World Cup 2008!
|
 |
« Reply #1 on: December 14, 2009, 09:18:21 AM » |
|
keep checking on ebay i paid a total of $30 awhile ago for a shipped astropitch from the UK
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Patrick Sheridan - Maryland Subbuteo Club 2007, 2008 & 2009 ASA National Champions! Metal Goals for sale @ www.tableoccerusa.com
|
|
|
Kevin Slovinski
Newbie

Posts: 21
|
 |
« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2009, 09:52:41 AM » |
|
thanks..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Luis Rubio
Newbie

Posts: 25
|
 |
« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2009, 10:29:38 PM » |
|
Patrick - that was a steal! Slo - check with Paul Eyes ( http://www.tablesoccerusa.com) to see if he's still selling new Pegaso pitches which are very good. Astropitches from the UK may be found at around £20.00 plus shipping (another £16-33 depending on how good the seller is at convincing the Royal mail that the tube is just over 90 cm). You definitely want to glue it down to a table specially if it is a second hand one so that you get rid of the creases you may find. I've had good eBay buying experiences even if they are shipped folded if the seler didn't have box/tube - which is also cheaper. Also, if you find an Astropitch selling in a box rather than the tube, go for it - those pitches from the 70's are faster than the tubed ones from the 80's. Where are you playing?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Kevin Slovinski
Newbie

Posts: 21
|
 |
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2009, 06:44:30 AM » |
|
thanks for the info guys I have talked to Paul a few times now, he has no pitchs avalable. I found one on ebay for 8 pounds, has 8 hrs left we shall see! I play in MI and I have joined the club there, though I have yet to play with anyone but my neighbors, just getting back into the game. slo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Hoop27
Newbie

Posts: 44
|
 |
« Reply #5 on: December 15, 2009, 05:22:19 PM » |
|
an astro just sold for 50 pounds  Ebay has gone insane at Xmas. Might take a month for it to calm down.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Rory
|
 |
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2009, 07:10:27 AM » |
|
Whenever you find a place with one, let me know if they have another.
Any suggestions on what to do to make a nylon pitch from a box set decent to use? Should I find something to put under it if I want to mount it on wood?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Hoop27
Newbie

Posts: 44
|
 |
« Reply #7 on: December 16, 2009, 09:38:23 AM » |
|
I wouldn't put anything under it. I experimented with it and nothing worked as well as I wanted. the best I used was very firm carpet underlay.
As for your Nylon pitch. Shave it. Take a disposable razor (or a few) and shave your pitch. It will take a long time but you will see improvement once you shave it down a bit.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Rory
|
 |
« Reply #8 on: December 16, 2009, 01:03:38 PM » |
|
So should I just spray adhesive it to a board?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Hoop27
Newbie

Posts: 44
|
 |
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2009, 01:09:31 PM » |
|
You may get some people disagreeing with me here but I say no. Take a staple gun and go around the edges with that. Now if it were a thick astro I would say yes of course glue it down, but with a cloth pitch I think long term. If you get a buddy that gets into it and wants a set you could hook him up with the cloth pitch (assuming down the road you have bought another pitch) that you stapled instead of gluing down. Because once it's glued down, it down pretty much forever 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Rory
|
 |
« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2009, 01:35:37 PM » |
|
If I stay close enough to the edges I should be able to hide the staples with my side boards so I guess that would work out pretty cool. I guess I'd better make that thing tight so the middle doesn't wrinkle or whatever.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Hoop27
Newbie

Posts: 44
|
 |
« Reply #11 on: December 16, 2009, 03:16:17 PM » |
|
I did it with my first pitch and it worked fine.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Patrick Sheridan
Maryland Subbuteo Club
Sr. Member

Posts: 367
World Cup 2008!
|
 |
« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2009, 02:05:18 AM » |
|
use spray adhesive, it comes up pretty easily still so its not as if it is completely permanent.
also there should be space between the edge of your pitch and the walls of your pitch so you can get your hand down. make sure when you cut the board you allow for this added space because it will make playing a lot easier.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Patrick Sheridan - Maryland Subbuteo Club 2007, 2008 & 2009 ASA National Champions! Metal Goals for sale @ www.tableoccerusa.com
|
|
|
|
Jeremy Stroop
|
 |
« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2009, 02:06:04 PM » |
|
I agree with Patrick. It's easy to apply without making a mess. Here's my strategy:
This works best with two people, working on opposite sidelines. One can spray the glue while the other holds then pitch, and then pressing the felt down and smoothing can be done together on your half of the field - this will ensure the most secure and wrinkle/bump-free installation.
Mark out the measurements so that the touch lines and sidelines are equal distance from the side boards. Don't use the edge of the pitch because they may not have been cut symmetrically. Attatch one side (goal lines) with painter's tape so the pitch is sitting in the right spot. Lay towels down over the entire pitch and the extra MDF board so you don't get glue on them. Lift up the opposite side about 8 inches and spray the adhesive on both the rubber mat and the board and lay the pitch back down smoothing it from the edge of the glue back toward the end of the pitch, holding the end of the pitch up while you smooth it out. This will prevent wrinkles and bumps in the playing surface.
After you give this end a few minutes to set and adhere, remove the tape from the other side, and pull the pitch surface back over the table, exposing the board, until you get to the point where the spray adhesive has set. Work in 4-6 inch increments, repeating the process until you are done - spray the board and the rubber, then work in tandem to set and smooth the felt, working from the junction of where the rubber and table are glued, smoothing it back out an inch or so at a time, working from center of the felt to the sideline. If you apply more than about 4 inches of spray adhesive at once, you run the risk of it drying and setting before you get the pitch down - and if you reapply adhesive over dried adhesive, y ou run the risk of it not setting very well. I usually don't go more than 4 inches at a time. Once you get a system going, it's pretty simple.
This way, you haven't put any holes in your pitch, and even though it won't ever move while you are playing, you can peel it up again to move it to a different board if your MDF ever warps.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Well... it's a Dutch oven.. and the French are TOAST!
|
|
|
|
Darren Koffman
|
 |
« Reply #14 on: December 24, 2009, 08:36:40 AM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|